Now, I consider myself to be a fairly big soccer fan, but that's nothing compared to the fanaticism I saw today at the match between La Plata and the Boca Juniors. Just getting to the stadium was a cultural experience. First, we set off in a tour bus and picked up a couple more tourists on the way. Then we stopped at this dodgy gas station to pick up our tickets. Our purveyor then guided us to the stadium in his little, old, beat-up VW Rabbit. On the way, we were told the rules... Turns out we were sitting with La Plata, not Boca Juniors... So we were told not to chant any Boca songs, or have any Boca colors. Also, if Boca were to score a goal, we shouldn't cheer for that either. Even if we wanted Boca to win. We might be killed. As first I thought they were exaggerating a bit, but no... There are actually gangs of futbol fans that have been known to kill fans of a rival team. Talk about scary. We got to the stadium a little early so we were treated to a road-side bbq stand that served steaks, steak sandwiches, steak on a stick, steak empanadas, and a sausage called a churripano (I think). And don't forget the beer. This was the last time you would be able to have a drink before entering the stadium. They don't serve alcohol inside. By the way, my churripano cost about 4 pesos, or about US$1.16, and I couldn't finish it. It was too big! As a group, we were told to stay together, with guys on the outside and girls on the inside, just to be safe. And were given green wrist bands so we would be easily identified. And let me tell you, they worked. As we rounded the corner to the stadium, it suddenly got very crowded. Fans from La Plata were cheering, singing and flying flags. Things were starting to get exciting. There were police everywhere, with heavy batons and plexiglass shields. The formed a blockade at the main La Plata entrance. That's when people started pushing. I swear, I could have stuck my elbows out and lifted my feet and have been swept right on along with the crowd. As it was, our group was having trouble sticking together. I had my arms up trying to protect any amount of breathing room I could, and hundreds of sweat, shirtless guys were trying to squeeze through a five-foot break in the police line. It wasn't fun. But with my arms up, a police officer noticed my green wrist band and forcibly made the crowd let me through. Once out in the open, I found my group and made my way to my seat. The first thing you notice is that at one end, the crowd is for Boca, and they are flying the blue and gold flags and banners. They are fenced in and kept away from the La Plata crowd. This makes perfect sense if you've ever been to a riot. The other side is full of La Plata flags of navy and white. The chants start flying back and forth before the opening whistle. Argentinians are very passionate about their futbol, and tend to yell obscenities at the refs, the opposing team and its fans... And even throws an "hijo de puta" at their own team if one player does something stupid. What I found most interesting was that during the chants, fans were either clapping in time or waving their hands like an over-excited Eva Perron addressing her companeros on the balcony of the Casa Rosada. (I told you to see Evita, didn't I?) Then at half-time, in the sweltering heat, firehoses are brought out to cool down the crowds in the endfield seats. Thousands of shirtless guys rush forward to meet the massive spray. If you're thinking wet T-shirt contest, think again. Try a heavy-metal concert in the rain. But I'm sure you're wondering how the match turned out... It was a draw. One Boca player was thrown out of the game for a vicious foul. He pushed a La Plata player to the ground and then stomped on him while he was down. Automatic ejection. But even playing up a man, La Plata just couldn't find the back of the net. With only a few minutes left in the game, number 20 on La Plata had the best move and opportunity of the game. A quick flick of his foot scooped the ball over a defenders leg, and gave 20 the room to take the ball to the goal... The goal keeper came out to swipe the ball away, but missed! I was all ready to start screaming, "Gol!" along with the other 50,000 La Plata fans. We were on our feet, mouths open for victory, when the ball squirts too far ahead of 20 and a defender swoops in to knock it away. Man, what a let down! And that's just how the game ended... Which was probably still considered a victory for La Plata, who are currently only sixth or seventh in the standings while Boca is number one. At the end of the game, the police make all the Boca fans leave first while La Plata people wait. It's safer that way, I guess. The match started around 5:20pm local time, and we didn't get back until about 10:00pm. It was quite an event, and I'd certainly do it again, but for now, I'm looking for a nice quite couple of days to sit with locals and take some tours of the city. Tomorrow is the Dia de la Virgen, or Immaculate Conception Day, so things will be a little quiter around here. I'll chat with you then, and I hope you all have had a lovely weekend.